The C425 ran on the A&O for the first time on New Years Eve 2018. I need to shoot some photos of her in her new home. She still needs number board decals, and two micro LED ground lights that fit in brass castings below the cab after I gave them O-scale “root canals.” The other 22 LEDs worked great (kinda went overboard there…) The machined aluminum headlights were well received and easier to install than I had expected.
Today on a frigid New Year’s Day I decided to once again tackle the first of four Overland C424s. Along with the C425 they should be primary coal train haulers. Three of them have the “what was Overland thinking?” inaccessible rear headlight, class and number boards as shown earlier in this thread. I learned that grinding away, or even trying to unsolder a thick piece of brass was impractical. So what to do? Drastic times call for drastic measures!
After a little resistance iron work to thin out weak 1980’s era Overland solder joints I was able to tap lightly on a small screw driver to pop off the entire rear of the long hood. While I was at it the roof walk over the radiator shutters popped off along with the bottom stretcher with the screw mounting holes. No surprises there, I’ve re-soldered several of them. Note that I already popped out the rear headlight MV lenses.
The next photo shows the end of the long hood. I used a “Screaming Banshee Hand Mill” (term learned from Jay Barnaby) with an inverted conical dental burr to grind out a first part of the engineer’s side number board and clear out access to the rear headlights.
Since the assembly was now liberated, it was time to drop it in the ultrasonic cleaner in a jar of lacquer thinner. I didn’t know what type of paint was used, but first guessed acrylics. Here we see the cleaner bowl filled with water and a glass jar with the part and thinner inside. This is why one NEVER uses lacquer thinner to clean locomotive wheels
It worked! The paint blistered and required very little work with an old toothbrush.
A bit more cleaning with lacquer thinner and a cotton bud (Q-tip) should make everything uniformly shiny.